![]() This leaves you with a cable that can never be adjusted or reinstalled. The most terrible option is to get the bike set up right, and then cut the flyaway end flush with the edge of the brake. If I do this, I snip the heatshrink a few millimetres below the end of the wire, so it covers the exposed strands. The heatshrink shrinks under heat and conforms tightly to the outside of the cable. Heatshrink tubing is good - you slide on a short piece, heat it with hot air or a soldering iron, or even a lighter. Superglue/cyanoacrylate glue does a similar job to solder. Also, stainless steel, galvanizing, and chromed cables can make it hard to get wetting from the molten solder. Downside is its sharp and can poke through skin fairly easily. It will leave the narrowest possible cable and the solder should stop the strands from peeling up. If you can get a small blob of electrical solder to wick into the braid of the cable, then that is an excellent place to cut the cable. When it's properly done it also eliminates any risk of getting poked a strand.Ĭrimps are ideal, but there are three other good possible solutions, and a bad one. ![]() If you have soldering supplies but not tips, there's nothing wrong with doing it that way. (Which it almost never is, but whatever). Some people favor soldering and then capping the tips, but others argue for soldering and then leaving them bare because that approach maximizes their ability to be take out of their housings and put back through if needed. ![]() There have been times and places where it was the norm. ![]() It's strictly better in a functional sense, but isn't done commonly anymore (that I've seen) because it takes longer. Soldering the tips is a professional-level way of doing it as well. For a few years now I've been using the Park needlenose pliers that have a very effective crimper built in and are also good enough quality on their cutter to trim cables, so it's the fewest hand motions and slickest way of doing it that I know of. As mentioned in comments, wire strippers also have a crimping part that can work. keep a junky one around just for the purpose. To do the actual crimping, for many years I would just use light pressure on a blunt or low-quality cutter on a needlenose plier, i.e. I believe they were borrowed wholesale from motorcycle applications. In the days of "oversize" mountain bike brake cables, there were cable tips just for those. When you see them for sale not specified shift or brake, it's usually kind of an in-betweener size, but I've also gotten bottles like that which were kind of too big to look good on shift. ![]() Some mechanics favor using the plain shift ones for everything, which is fine - they slide on kind of tight on brake cables, but (subjectively) look neat. Brake ones don't usually look very neat on shift cables. In practice either of those two sizes can go on either cable type. They come in two major sizes, one for 1.1 and 1.2mm shift cables and one for 1.6mm brake cable. They have a couple different names: cable tips and endcaps are common. ![]()
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